Over my time at the guesthouse I meet many other New Zealanders and Australians. Included in their number is a guy who arrives in Thailand having narrowly escaped tragedy after being kidnapped by a group of animal smugglers in Borneo, and who consequently has many a fascinating story to tell. In fact 'Noi House' proves to be quite an antipodean's haven.

Also resident here are a great community of cats, presided over by a giant ginger tom who is often observed looking very tired indeed, an indication that the next generation of his clan may well be on the way. The cats serve the valuable purpose of keeping away the tribes of rats which team throughout the city. Due to these a stroll around the streets late at night is accompanied by the sound of rustling from the multitude of rubbish bags left out for the night-time collection.

These gently rock and sway as numerous rodents make meals of their contents. In competition with the rats are various scruffy individuals drawing handcarts who thoroughly pick through the refuse and carefully remove from each bag anything which they may be able to sell to the recyclers.

Chiang Mai, second only to Bangkok in national importance, was established in 1296 by King Mengrai as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. Over the following centuries the area alternated between independence and Burmese rule until, in 1774, King Taksin of Thon Buri, captured the city and brought it under Thai control. Taksin appointed Chao Kavila, a jâo meuang (the Thai equivalent of an English lord), from nearby Lampang, as viceroy of Northern Thailand. It was Kavila who, in 1800, built the imposing brick walls around the inner city, replacing the now ruined walls built by King Mengrai.

The distance around the entirety of these walls, the confines of which the city has now well and truly outgrown, is about five kilometres. Undertaking to walk this, I end up exhausted and manage to get sunburn on my arms to the point where they are blistered. The walls, surrounded by a moat, are one of the most impressive sights of Chiang Mai. Although they are now partly demolished, the four great gates and most of the corner sections remain.

Thaphae Gate, the nearest to my home in Loi Kroh Road, and Thaphae road, leading from the gate to the nearby Mae Ping River, both take their name from the 'thaphae', or floating pier, which was established at the end of the road by Chao Kavila to facilitate trade. The area outside the gate features a large courtyard where events are regularly held. These centre around huge public address systems delivering a variety of music and other entertainment with the volume pumped to the level of distortion. On Sundays a market is run here and this extends up the adjoining Ratchadamnoen Road for many blocks. Here local crafts are displayed for sale and this market is popular with Thais and tourists alike.